1.Barrel gets stuck: Humidity can enter the wood and increase the diameter of the top-joint tenon. This can cause problems, because the connection between the top-joint and barrel becomes too tight, which makes it hard or even impossible to take the barrel off. The solutions are:
1. Hold the barrel very tight in your hand and instead of trying to turn the barrel, wiggle it upwards.
2. Bend the barrel in all 4 directions, like you would like to break it off. Don´t try it to hard and not on Greenline instruments! Greenline tenons can break! .
3. Lay a leather belt around the barrel in a sling and try to turn it.
4. Just wait a day or two and have the instrument dry by itself. Keep it in a dry environment.
2.Barrel wobbles If the Barrel wobbles, lay either a threat, some tape or paper around the top-joint tenon, before you push on the barre.
If a barrel cracks at the top or bottom, where the tenons of the mouthpiece or top-joint enters, the crack might be caused by physical force. To prevent that from happening, be always careful not to use to much force when you ensemble the clarinet. Don?t tilt the different parts just turn or push them in straight.
If a crack goes all the way into the bore, humidity would have caused it. It can nicely be glued and the barrel will be fine again. As an emergency solution, put some tape around the barrel to make it seal again. Do not use oil or grease on the crack, because that will make it difficult if not impossible to glue afterwards.
4. Loose sockets When the humidity is very low and the wood shrinks metal tenons can loose their bound to the wood and become loose. If that?s happening it can easily be tightened again. If the metal receiver was glued on with a thermo glue or shell lack, the metal tenon needs just to be heated up with a torch. If in doubt ask an experienced repairman do it for you.
5. Barrel versus tuning rings To change the length of an instrument just with a barrel will have its biggest effect on the notes close to the barrel. A better solution might be to combine it with some tuning rings. This way, the instrument can be prolonged just a bit at the barrel and some more at the lower-joint. A more even tuning will be possible.
6. Zoom barrels If you turn a zoom barrel to fare apart, you might not get it to work again. Don´t use force, but give it to someone who knows how to handle it.
7. The original barrel The original barrel was reamed together with the top-joint of the instrument when it was built. Therefor is there a good chance that it will have a very good and smooth connection to the top-joint in the beginning. Over time both joints might develop differently and the bores of both joints might become oval. In some cases this might cause problems. Try to turn the barrel in different positions and see if it improves it?s performance. If so just remember the position and keep it that way. There is no reason to exchange the barrel just because of this.
8. The cork is to thick New instruments or joints might have a cork which is to thick to go on smoothly. First make sure that it is really the cork and not the wood that?s causing the problem. If you ensemble the pieces and the cork is to thick, just take either a 240 grain piece of sandpaper and take of some of the cork. Alternatively use a fingernail file and remove some cork. Do it carefully until you have a firm but smooth fit. Apply some cork-grease before you put the joints together.
9.The tenons can not get all the way in This often happens to new instruments. The instrument was dried to it?s minimum humidity level. Afterwards the body was turned to its dimensions as soon as you start playing the humidity level will increase. This causes the wood to increase as well and the tenons will expand. The Metal rings on the receiver side will prevent, that the receiver can expand as well. You will notice that the joints get nicely together until about 4-5 mm before the end and then tighten up. That?s the area where the wood of the tenon is to thick. Take a thin strap of sandpaper or fold a piece of sandpaper to make it more stable and remove a layer of wood of the tenon just above the cork. Do it carefully. If it still binds to it again. At one point you will notice some progress but it will not be enough. You will now also notice, that some areas, where you sanded, the wood showed the typical sanding marks. Other will have a shiny surface. These are the areas which are still too thick. Continue to sand just these areas down until you have the fit you like.
10. The cork is loose Lately many tenon corks on new instruments become loose. If you can remove the cork gently in one piece, do so. Clean the loose cork surface with alcohol or gasoline and apply a thin layer of contact cement on the wood and the cork. Waite for some minutes until it feels dry and then press it tightly back into place. If only one end is loose, clean only this bit on the cork and wood, apply the contact cement, wait and press it into place.